Smith Rock State Park is one of the 7 wonders of Oregon and a must-see place if you’re in Central Oregon. I’m lucky enough to say Smith Rock is in my backyard. I live a short distance from this amazing places and get to spend a lot of time soaking up its beauty. It’s one of the places I get asked about the most so I’m going to share my opinions and knowledge of the area with you.

Smith Rock State Park from Misery Ridge

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What is Smith Rock State Park?

Smith Rock is an area along the Crooked River made up of spires, cliffs and canyons formed from volcano activity 27+ million years ago. The park is made up of 3,200 foot ridge, a river walk winding between the rock and the Crooked River and amazing wildlife. If you’re lucky you’ll be able to spot a Bald Eagle flying overhead! The rocks here are a mixture of reds, oranges and blues.

Things to Know About Smith Rock State Park

  • Always practice Leave No Trace. Do not carve or mark on rocks. Do not remove or stack rocks. Take out all trash and dispose of it properly.
  • Know the park hours and be aware of your hike time if you plan to go early or be there late. The park is open daily from dawn till dusk. IT is also extremely busy on weekends and especially in the summer months. You could arrive by 8am on a weekend in the summer and not find a spot until someone leaves. Be prepared to go early or potentially wait for an opening.
  • You will need a State Park pass to hike here. You can pre-purchase a yearly pass for $30 online or at an outdoor supply store. If you’re just visiting fro the day and don’t want a yearly pass, there you can pay a $5 fee at a kiosk within the parking areas.
  • The park is known worldwide for its rock climbing, so be in the lookout for small bodies climbing on the rocks above!
  • There are rattlesnakes in the park. Wear closed-toed shoes and know what to do if you encounter one.
  • Be sure to pack plenty of water for your hike, especially in summer months. There is little shade and the only water you can get on trail is from the river with a water filter. It is recommended to drink a liter of water for every two miles, more on warm days.
  • The trails are loose scree throughout the park. This can make for extremely slippery trails when going on the steep terrain. Misery Ridge has stairs that help prevent falling, but the switchbacks on the back side by Monkey Face do not, making it more difficult. Take your time when going down these steep sections or bring poles to help keep you upright.

Camping and Climbing at Smith Rock State Park

Smith Rock is considered a climber’s paradise. You will find people climbing here year-round, and it will be packed in the summer months! The visitor center even has some small bouldering walls for kids to play on or adults or practice.

There is a small campground at the park as well. I’ve camped at it once. It’s an $8 overnight fee you can pay at the camping parking lot which covers your day-use fee as well. From the parking lot you will walk into a large meadow and can pitch a tent anywhere you find a spot. Try to minimize your impact by choosing a spot that appear to have been used before. It has running water bathrooms with showers and an outdoor sink area. The campground is mostly used by climbers who stay there so they can get up and walk with their gear to climb the next day.

Hiking Smith Rock State Park

Smith Rock State Park map
Zoomable Full Park Map

The nice thing about this park is that it’s accessible to many levels. The park itself consists of a ridge where the parking and camping are located, a canyon with the Crooked River and the towering rock spires where the main trails are located. The ridge where you park has the visitor center as well as a mixture of paved and unpaved trails that lead to various viewpoints. There are also picnic tables and a children’s rock climbing wall. It’s mostly flat terrain so you can get great views of the area without having to do a major hike.

The next option is to hike into the canyon. The path down begins steep. Know your abilities and make sure you’re comfortable climbing back out of the canyon if you decide to go down. Once you are in the canyon, there are multiple options based on your skill level and amount of time you have. The most popular option is to head up Misery Ridge, which I will share about later.

If you’re looking for a hike with little to no elevation gain, you can cross the bridge over the Crooked River and either go left or right. These trails will take you along the Crooked River for multiple miles where you can still enjoy the beautiful rock formations, the windy river and wildlife without the strenuous hiking. If you’re looking for a shorter hike, take the Wolf Tree Trail at the bridge for a 2.7 miles out and back.

If you have time for a longer hike, heading along the River Trail will take you around the backside of Smith Rock where you can see Monkey Face, a famous rock formation that looks like a monkey’s face. Sometimes there’s even climbers on it. You can also hike along the Canyon Trail or the Homestead Trail if you don’t want to cross the river.

Misery Ridge

Distance: 2.2 miles round trip

Elevation: 1,115 feet

Trail: Out and back

Difficulty: Hard

The most popular trail here is the Misery Ridge Trail, which starts straight across from the bridge after you cross the river. It gets its name from being over a 600 foot climbing less than a mile to the summit. It’s going to get your lungs working and your heart pumping.

Once your at the top of the ridge you’ll notice there are small trails in many directions just off the main trail. These trails are climber trails that lead to various climbing routes. You can explore them if you would like, but always stay on the trails to limit your impact and not creating new trails. You’ll also be able to see Monkey Face on the back side of the ridge. If you’re lucky you may get to see climbers on it. The top of the ridge is a great spot to sit, enjoy the views or take a snack break.

River Trail

Distance: 4.5 miles round trip

Elevation: 321 feet

Trail: Out and Back

Difficulty: Easy

The River Trail is a relatively flat trail that goes along the Crooked River at the base of the towering rock spires. From the bridge, turn left. This is a great trail for watching wildlife, looking out for rock climbers and enjoying the beauty of Smith Rock without the strenuous hiking.

The trail trail follows the river around to the back side of Smith Rock. From there it connects with the Misery Ridge Loop Trail. Once you come around the backside of the spires, you’ll have great views of Monkey Face. It’s a great way to see Monkey Face without having to climb up the ridge.

Misery Ridge Loop

Distance: 3.5 miles round trip

Elevation: 1,115 feet

Trail: Loop

Difficulty: Hard

The Misery Ridge Loop connects the Misery Ridge Trail with the River Trail. Most hikers either hike up Misery Ridge and then return down Misery Ridge for a 2.2 mile round trip hike. The other option people often do is hike up Misery Ridge but then take the Mesa Verde Trail down the the River Trail, where you walk along the river back to the bridge for a longer loop hike. This option lets you experiences the views from the top fo the ridge as well as the peaceful walk along the river.

My preferred route is to actually go against the main flow of traffic when I’m here. I like to take a left at the bridge and hike the River Trail to the backside of Smith Rock. From the back I can then connect to the Mesa Verde Trail Up to Misery Ridge. I prefer this route because the switchbacks on the backside of the Misery Ridge Trail are actually very steep with loose rock, making it easy to slip and fall.

By going up the switchbacks instead of down like most people do, you’ll be less likely to slip. I find it makes the switchbacks easier. I also prefer this route because going down Misery Ridge is easier with its built in steps. Unlike the switchbacks, these steps going down make it easier to not fall on the loose rock.

Wolf Tree Trail

Distance: 2.7 miles round trip

Elevation: 406 feet

Trail: Out and back

Difficulty: Easy

This is the least busy trail out fo the four options I’m sharing. Because most hikers are hiking up the ridge or along the River Trail, this is a great option if you’re seeking more solitude but still want the beauty of the river and rocks. You can also add on to this hike by hiking up Burma Road as far as you wish. Burma Road connects to the back side of Smith Rock where you can connect to the Misery Ridge Trail or the River Trail. This would make for a long and difficult loop trail.

What to Bring Hiking at Smith Rock State Park

Hiking Poles are extremely helpful if you plan to do Misery Ridge. Because the trail on both sides is so steep, with loose rock, the hiking poles will help you maintain balance and footing on the trail.

Proper shoes are important in helping with the loose scree as well. Hiking boots and trail runners have much better traction than hiking sandals, like Chaco’s, or tennis shoes. Wearing proper shoes will make the hike much easier and protect your feet if you happen to cross paths with a rattlesnake.

Plenty of water or a water filter are a must, especially in the summer. The trail does have random spots of shade from the large rocks and trees. For the most part it is exposed and can radiate a lot of heat in the summer months. Carry a liter of water for every hour you plan to hike and more during warmer weather or if you go up Misery Ridge.

Hiking in the winter will often bring snow or ice. Microspikes will greatly help you keep your footing on the steep trails. If the trail is packed down ice microspikes would be best. If it’s fresh snow and you know you aren’t doing Misery Ridge you can also wear a pair of traction shoe covers without the spikes.

Always carry the 10 essentials, which you can learn more about here. To learn more about what I hike with go here to see my must-have gear, trail clothes and more!

Monkey Face at Smith rock

Reminders

  • Always practice Leave No Trace. Smith Rock has a lot of foot traffic, but try to stick to obvious trails rather than creating new ones. Never carve or mark on rocks, it is illegal. Pack it in, pack it out. THis means take all your garbage and fruit peels back to the trailhead to dispose of them properly. Go prepared with the proper gear and clothes by checking the weather prior to hiking.
  • Water, water, water! It‘s so important to have an appropriate amount if water. You should consume a liter for every 2 hours of hiking. A small water bottle or a shared water supply will not be enough. If you have one, bring a water filter to resupply.
  • You will need to purchase a yearly State Park Pass or buy a daily pass at the parking lot kiosk. It is $30 for a year to any Oregon State Park or $5 for a day pass.
  • Be aware of where you put your hands and feet. There are rattlesnakes at the park that may be out sunbathing on the trail or seeking a cool place to lay under rocks. Always look before you put you hands or feet someplace you cannot see. If you see a snake, give it plenty of space until it moves away or you can safely get around it.

Smith Rock is one of the most beautiful and unique landscapes in Oregon. I have hiked it a couple dozen times and it still never gets old. Every time I go, there is a new place to explore or a new sight to see. If you’re able-bodied enough to do Misery Ridge, I would highly recommend making it to the top, whether you do it as an out and back or a loop. The views at the top are hard to beat on a clear day.

Happy Hiking,

Elizabeth

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