Backpacking to Havasu Falls on Havasupai Indian reservation is like entering a secret paradise. As soon as I learned about this little gem on Earth, I knew I had to see it for myself. I started by researching how to book it and tips I needed to know before going. I want to share what I learned so you can make the most of your future adventure there too!
Things to Know About Havasupai
- This hike takes you through the Supai village of the Havasupai Indian Tribe and across their land. Always be respectful of their rules and stay on trail. You should not wander through town or canyons. It is their land and they are granting us access, so respect their rules. You can learn more about the tribe and area by visiting their official website.
- Keep in mind a trip to Havasu Falls is expensive for a backpacking trip, but it’s worth it! Expect to spend $350-$500 per person for a 1-3 night stay. The tribe could raise the costs yearly if they want as well causing the prices to increase. You will also have to factor in the cost of travel, food and gear.
- There is always a chance of flash flooding at Havasu Falls campground so do some research on the dangers. The reservation received extensive damage both in 2018 and 2019 from flash flooding. The campground sits right along the river so you do not want to be at camp if a flash flood hits. Know how to check upstream weather and know if there is a danger prior to beginning your hike.
- It is extremely dangerous to stand underneath a waterfall because of the force of the water. Never walk directly underneath one of these waterfalls. The power of the water could seriously injure you or cause you to get trapped underwater.
- There are vaulted toilets throughout the Havasu campground so you do not need to worry about packing a lot of toilet paper or carrying out your waste unless you have to use the restroom outside of camp. This area is a water source so you should never pee or poop near the water. Bring a wag bag and carry your waste back out with you.
- There is a drinkable water spigot you can get fresh water and not have to filter. It is located at camp near Havasu Falls. I packed a collapsible 3 gallon water jug to fill and keep at camp for drinking and food because I didn’t want to filter water often. It was great because I didn’t have to constantly run over to fill up water, but I also never had to filter my water down there, but still packed a filter.
- The village of Supai has a small convenience store where you can purchase cold drinks and snacks. When I was there, there were also a vendor next to Havasupai Falls selling fresh indian fry bread and cold drinks as well. They only took cash so be sure to bring some with you if you want to purchase a few items down there.
- The bugs were very persistent at night when I was in Havasu, so pack a headlamp with a red light setting to help lessen the amount of times you have one dive bomb your head.
Havasu Falls Location
Havasu Falls is located on the Havasupai Indian Reservation in Northern Arizona, inside of the Grand Canyon. The trailhead is around 3 hours and 50 minutes east of Las Vegas, 2 hours and 50 minutes from Flagstaff and 3 hours and 20 minutes from the Grand Canyon National Park South Rim. You will have to take the W Historic Route 66 towards Peach Springs, Arizona. You’ll then turn on Indian Road 18, the only road that leads to the trailhead and park at Hualapai Hilltop, a large parking lot on the rim of the canyon.
Click here to see the trailhead location and get directions from where you intend to come from.
Best Time of Year to visit Havasupai
While determining the dates, you want to think about the weather in the desert. April-May will have warm but cooler days, while June-August will bring scorching summer days and most likely always in the 100’s. The fall can also be a great time to go with the weather cooling off again. You can visit in the winter months, but be prepared for colder temperatures. Winter months at Havasupai will be less crowded and the water is actually geothermally heated at 70 degree so you can still comfortably walk through it.
I hiked at the end of May and experience snow the day prior to hiking followed by 90 degree weather. Although playing in the water on a hot summer day will feel so refreshing, keep in mind that same temperature is what you will have to hike out in.
Obtaining a Permit to Havasupai
Permits are available for 1-3 nights on the Havasupai Reservation. If camping is not for you and you still want to experience this desert oasis, there is a lodge in the village you can stay at. Keep in mind the lodge is still a 4 miles round trip just to Havasu Falls. The other major falls are all past it. The first important thing to know about booking this trip is that it goes quickly! Everyone wants a spot at Havasupai. Start by going to https://www.havasupaireservations.com and creating an account.
Once you have an account, set your alarm! Reservations go live for the season on February 1st at 8am, and the website can be slow with everyone trying to book their ideal dates too. I accidentally got on 15 minutes late and my ideal dates were already booked! Thankfully my total trip was two weeks long so I was able to get a permit for different days. If you plan to go Monday-Wednesday, you may not be able to get Monday if someone booked it out before you. So be flexible and maybe you can get Tuesday-Thursday. Be prepared for a crazy morning on the site when you go to book!
Once you book, you will not be able to get a refund or change the dates so be sure everyone in your party is committed. Whoever makes the reservation will be designated the trip leader on the site and MUST be present at the time of check-in. They do have an option to transfer the reservation to an alternate leader.
Insider tip: I learned you can do two reservations in a row to get 6 nights if you want to stay longer than 3 nights at Havasupai.
Havasu Falls Trail Info
Distance: 20 miles round trip
Elevation: 2,400 feet
Trail: Out and back
Difficulty: Hard
Pass/Permit: Havasupai permit required
There have three choices in getting to Havasu Falls based on your abilities, wants and budget. The first is to take the helicopter into the village and hike the last two miles to the campground. The second is to hike the full 10 miles but hire the mules to carry your gear. You will be passed a handful of times on the trail by guides on horseback and the mules carrying gear down to the campsite. Lastly, you can backpack with your gear the full 10 miles, which is what i opted to do.
A lot of people arrive to the Hualapai Hilltop parking lot the night before to camp out. Hualapai Hilltop sit on the edge of the Grand Canyon and is the only spot to park for hiking to Havasupai. Because of the heat, most people take off early (4-6am) and it give you a better chance of snagging a good campsite.
The hike will take a few hours and you don’t want to be doing it in the heat of the day. I personally left around 5am so I could get first dibs on campsites that opened up. The hike itself is mostly flat after descending down the canyon wall for about a half mile. The hike takes you between the canyon walls, so there will be shady spots to rest if you need it.
Be sure to bring your reservation number with you. There will be people on horses checking for it along the way. There is no day hiking and you must have a reservation to enter Havasupai, so don’t bother trying to go without one.
Arriving at Supai Village
This isn’t an overly difficult hike, but what really makes it exhausting it the long monotonous miles with a heavy pack and the heat. After 8 miles, you’ll enter the village of Supai. As you approach Supai there will be a small creek and a waterway they’ve built just off the trail to bring water to the village. As you enter the village there’ll be signs to stop at the reservation check-in. If you reach the helicopter landing site, you’ve gone too far!
Inside they’ll confirm you’ve paid and are there on the correct dates. You will be required to have a printed copy of your reservation, your license plate and a photo ID with you at check in. They’ll also give you wristbands to wear and a tag to place on your tent. This is so they can see you’re allowed on their land as you walk around the reservation. After checking in, you’ll continue through the village and hike 2 more miles to the campground. Just after the helicopter pad, there’s a small convenience store to the right.
Havasu Campground
The last two miles of the hike will be vastly different from the beginning of the hike. There will be lush green trees and the trickling creek you saw approaching town will turn into the turquoise Havasu Creek with small waterfalls. You’ll pass Fiftyfoot and Navajo Falls on the way to camp.
You’ll know you’ve made it to the campground when you start going down a steep hill and to your right is the famous Havasu Falls! It makes the long trek worth it when you get to finally see this beauty with your own eyes. There are sets of bathrooms at both ends of the campground as well as near the center, so don’t worry about camping near the first ones. The river winds through the campground so you can cross the small footbridges and find a campsite nestled in the trees. Make sure you find a place that has a picnic table, otherwise it’s not a designated campsite.
Exploring Havasu Falls and the Surrounding Waterfalls
Havasu Falls is without a doubt the busiest spot in Havasupai. It is a stunning 98 foot turquoise waterfall with mossy red rock. Pro tip: get up early and have breakfast at Havasu falls to enjoy it before everyone else arrives. A majority of people tend to just hang out around Havasu camp and Havasu Falls because it’s the famous waterfall, but there is a lot of exploring you can do.
There are four other waterfalls to hike to: Fiftyfoot falls, Navajo Falls, Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls. Both Fiftyfoot falls and Navajo Falls are located off the trail from Supai village and the campground. You’ll pass them on your way to camp but I would highly recommend going back to explore them. You can even sit in the pools on top of Navajo Falls and enjoy the canyon views surrounding it.
Mooney Falls is at the other end of camp from Havasu Falls. It is the largest of all the waterfalls in Havasupai at 200 feet. In order to get to the falls you will need to hike through a short cave and down a set of ladders to the base of the falls. It has a large pool at the base and a picnic table you can sit at. From Mooney Falls you can continue exploring. The trail wanders along the river and through the river all the way to Beaver Falls.
Beaver Falls is a series or short waterfalls and an 8 mile round trip hike from camp. If you’re up for a long day hike you can go 16 miles round trip from camp to the confluence of the Havasu Creek and the Colorado River. You will want to be prepared to navigate in and out of the river and have a proper dry bag if you continue on to these falls.
Leaving Camp
On the day you hike back to your car, plan to get up early just as early or early than when you hiked in can beat the heat. The hike out will be more difficult because you have to hike up the canyon wall fully exposed to the sun. If you wait to leave until later, you risk hiking in the direct sun and temperatures that reach over 90ºF.
The trail is just as long and monotonous on the way out as it is on the way in, only you won’t have the excitement of the falls ahead. Give yourself grace and time but also don’t spend to much time on trail because it’s important to get out of the canyon before the temperatures rise.
What to Bring to Havasupai
What you choose to pack will be completely dependent on the time of year you hike and you’re gear preferences. If you don’t own any of this gear, you can purchase it new, find used gear to purchase or go to REI to rent it. To learn more about my personal gear, check out my “Backpacking Gear” guide. If you’re new to backpacking, you can learn the ins and outs through my “Backpacking for Beginners” guide.
Essential gear:
- Backpacking backpack
- Day pack if you don’t use your backpack
- Tent
- Sleeping pad
- Sleeping bag
- Water jug
- Water bottle or reservoir
- Cooking stove
- Water filter
- Headlamp
Non-essential Gear
- Hammock
- Inflatable tube ( i did not bring one but many did)
- Pillow
- Dry bag
- String lights
- Lantern
- Ultra light towel
- Rope to dry gear and clothes
- Spork
Clothing/shoes:
- Swim suit(s)
- Quick dry shorts
- Quick Dry tank
- Long camp pants
- Log camp Top
- Undergarments
- Chacos
- Hiking Boots or trail runners
- Sunglasses
Food:
- Oatmeal cups
- Peanut butter packets
- Granola bars
- Dried Fruit
- Trail Mix
- Electrolytes
- Freeze dried dinners
These are the food items I chose to bring, but you can bring whatever meals you prefer on trail.
Toiletries
- Bug Spray
- Sunscreen
- Lotion
- Chap Stick
- Bathroom kit
- Wet wipes
- Tooth brush
- Tooth paste
- Biodegradable soap
Technology
- Portable battery
- Charging cords
- Camera
- Tripod
- Gimbal
To learn more about what I hike with go here to see my must-have gear, trail clothes and more!
Backpacking Responsibly
What does this mean? It means follow the Leave No Trace Principles and limit your impact on the trail.
- Plan ahead and prepare. This means researching the area ahead of time, knowing the weather forecast and packing accordingly. Planning and preparing for a trip is important to keep you safe and allow you to enjoy your trip stress free.
- Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces. This means finding a campsite where you can tell others have camp prior rather than finding a new campsite. Do not put your tent on vegetation or in meadows, causing harm to the plants. Be responsible in choosing a site and limit your footprint in the backcountry. Stay on trail and do not walk through sensitive environments like meadows. Make sure your tent is at a designated campsite when camping at Havasu.
- Leave What You Find. Nature is amazing but belongs in nature. Do not pick wildflowers or bring home rocks or other items you may find. Do not mark on rocks or vandalize nature.
- Dispose of Waste Properly. All garbage should be packed back out with you and disposed of properly at home. Bring a ziplock bag for toilet paper. There are toilets here so if you need to go to the bathroom away from camp use a wag bag and carry it back with you. Food items such as peels and nut shells should also be disposed of properly in a bag and taken back off trail with you. The campground has bathrooms so use those whenever you are at camp.
- Respect Wildlife. Do not feed or approach any wildlife. Minimize your noise by not playing music outdoors. Know the wildlife for the area so you are prepared for encounters. Do not leave food or garbage accessible (bear bag hangs are best).
- Minimize Campfire Impacts. Always know the local guidelines for your area before starting a fire. Many locations do seasonal bans depending on the season. Use an existing fire ring whenever possible. If you must create a new ring, clear the ground of all debris and use a location with minimal impact to the vegetation. Make sure you fire is completely out by dousing it in water multiple times and never through garbage into the fire.
- Be Considerate or Other Visitors. Be aware of your noise levels and be sure to kindly share the trail. Know proper trail etiquette so everyone can enjoy their time outside in nature. Remember, others may be afraid of dogs or have allergies so keep you dog on leash or safely away from others.
Reminders
- You cannot day hike to Havasu Falls. If you want to see this beautiful desert oasis, you must obtain a permit and have proof of the permit to enter the Havasupai Indian Reservation.
- Always practice leave no trace on trail. The Havasupai Indian reservation does not need to allow visitors onto their land, so be respectful of their rules and leave camp and the trail better than you found it. Never carve on the rocks and pack out all your trash.
- It is extremely dangerous to stand underneath a waterfall. Never walk directly underneath one of these waterfalls. The power of the water could seriously injure you or cause you to get trapped underwater.
- Pack your photo ID and a small amount of money. You will need to have your ID to check in at Supai village and the cash is in case you want to make any small purchases.
- Research the weather prior to trying to obtain a permit to decide what time of year you would like to go. The weather will be very different depending on the month you choose.
I hope this helps you prepare for your future journey to Havasu Falls! It’s one of the most peaceful places that will pull at your heartstrings and keep drawing you back for years to come! Now good luck winning that hard to come by reservation!
If you’re wanting to explore more of Arizona, Be sure to check out some of my other Arizona trial guides! Learn the best trail to Devil’s Bridge in my “Devil’s Bridge: The Trail Less Traveled” guide. Hike to ones of Sedona’s Best viewpoints with the “Munds Wagon Trail” guide.
Happy Travels,
Elizabeth
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